Wednesday, February 27, 2013

IS POKER A GAME OF SKILL OR LUCK?

Back and forth. Back and forth. This is the way the pendulum swings with regard to the debate over whether poker is a game of skill or chance.

The implications of that decision are enormous, as was in evidence in a recent court ruling wherein US District Judge Jack Weinstein determined that a New York businessman accused of operating an illegal poker establishment was not violating federal gambling laws because poker is a game of skill.

The U.S. government's contradictory stance on the issue only further muddies the waters. While the Department of Justice shut down three of the biggest poker websites serving American players in April of 2011 on the basis that they violated anti-gambling laws, the federal government seemed to rescind that finding in December of the same year, declaring that said anti-gambling laws - namely, the Wire Act of 1961 - applied only to sports betting and not to skill games like poker.

Numerous studies have been undertaken to clarify the issue. Some have determined that poker is a game of skill; others that poker is a game of chance.

A recent German study looked at tt The methodology was as follows:

  • Three average players and three experts sat down at a six-player table and played 60 computer-based hands of Texas Hold'em. In each hand, one average player and one expert received (a) better-than-average cards (winner's box), (b) average cards (neutral box) and (c) worse-than-average cards (loser's box). 
  • The standardized manipulation of the card distribution was intended to control for chance and thus reveal the differences in performance between the average and expert groups. 
  • 150 participants played a "fixed-limit" game and 150 individuals played a "no-limit" game.

The researchers in that study found that card distribution and not skill was the decisive factor in poker success. The study's results showed no distinction between the expert players and their average counterparts when it came to final cash balance. They did, however, reveal that the expert players were better able to reduce losses when confronted with challenges like worse-than-average cards.

According to the researchers, “Luck, rather than skill, was key in determining final balance, with experts taking no more, on average, that novices. Experts did play differently, on various measures, and seemed better able to cope with bad luck, losing less. But they also won less when given good cards.”

While the study's findings are based on fact (i.e. the outcomes were accurately reported), there were more than a few flaws in its basic construction.

First, the self-determination of by the players of their skill levels leaves a lot to be desired. It is conceivable that more than a few of the average players underestimated their talents and experience, while the reverse is likely true for the expert group.

Second, The limited number of hands played represents an insufficient sample size to reflect the statistical complexities of poker. Consider that there are 52 cards in a deck. A deck allows for more than 2.5 million possible five-card combinations. In Texas Hold'em games, which are played with seven cards, that number increases to approximately 133 million combinations.

So what is to be gained by the study? Frankly, not much. It's yet another example of the research world trying to define a game whose probabilities and nuances are next to impossible to quantify.

Particle physicist Michael Vonk puts it this way: "Good poker requires that you make sound game-theoretic decisions, but there is still plenty of freedom to try and outsmart your opponents. Other casino games miss that second element. All you can do in blackjack or roulette is make the best possible mathematical decisions, and even then, you will still lose in the long run. I have never been attracted to those games. It’s the fact that you play against other people that makes poker so interesting, and that makes it possible to actually be a winner at the game.”

Vonk breaks down the process of poker play to a few simple questions: What cards do I have? What range of cards do I think my opponent has? Given these, what are the odds that I will win the hand after all cards have been dealt? And lastly, given these odds, will I make money in the long run when I pay the bet?

While all of these questions are math-based, Vonk says that solid math skills aren't the only factor in poker. Good instincts are also vital. This is because poker is a game of incomplete information. The ability to calculate probabilities, though helpful, is simply not enough to consistently win. Variables like player numbers, game pace, consistent versus inconsistent betting and player temperament all work in conjunction to affect and alter each game's outcome.

“There are many people who hate math but are great poker players, but there are hardly any players who lack the people reading abilities and still manage to be good poker players,” says Vonk. “Mathematical knowledge can to a large extent be replaced by intuition and experience. After a player has played a million hands of poker, even if he does not know the math at all, he will have a decent feeling about when it is profitable to draw to a flush and when it is not.”

Thus, it stands to reason that a study examining only 300 players and 60 hands of poker cannot possibly take into account so many intangibles.

A 2008 study by researchers Michael A. Dedonno and Douglas K. Detterman asked the same question - 'Is poker a game of luck or skill? - but based its findings on the results of more than 920 hands divided into two distinct sessions.

The first session was played with participants receiving no poker instruction. The second session was played after participants received poker instruction. The aim of the study was to determine what effect player knowledge has on game outcome, and therein determine whether poker is a game of luck or skill.

What the researchers found was startling. In short, even the most elementary instruction and nominal practice changed game outcomes.

"The reason," say Dedonno and Detterman, "that poker appears to be a game of luck is that the reliability of any short session is low…. [O]btaining accurate estimates of poker ability may not be easy. Luck (random factors) disguises the fact that poker is a game of skill. However, as [this study shows], skill is the determining factor in long-term outcome.”

We couldn't agree more.

                                                        POKERMANTIS.COM

9 TOURNAMENT TIPS FOR INTERMEDIATE PLAYERS

 

1. Be smart with your poker money. You should have enough to backup cash to buy-in to 100 tournaments. If you have a $100 bankroll then play $1 tournaments. You will lose tournaments. Even the best pros lose several times in a row.

2. Wait for strong cards at the start of the tournament. There’s no need to risk losing your chips early in the game with fancy bluffs. Play few safe hands and fold with weak cards.

3. You have to be an aggressive player. Generally these players have higher odds of winning because they can win in one of two ways: with strong cards and by getting opponents to fold. If you only call with strong cards then your win purely depends on your hand.

4. Bet and raise when you think it is appropriate. Only go all-in if you have a hand that can fight. Learn how to calculate poker hand odds mentally.

5. Become more aggressive as blinds increase. Avoid fancy bluffs – just play tight and smart. The higher the blinds the more aggressive you should be. Increase your aggression as the bubble approaches.

6. Players with a middle stack are more likely to fold. As the game progresses chips stacks are not evenly distributed. Those with large stacks have chips can afford to call you out. Those with fewer chips will call out of desperation.

7. Position matters because those who are last know more. If your position is early then stick to strong hands. You can play around more if you are among the last because you have an advantage of knowing ahead.

8. Learn from your opponents. Many opponents play in several tournaments and if you are the same you may encounter them again. Know who to avoid until you have the experience. Sit in on games and to learn from them, but don’t copy them. Note that copying a famous player is not advised because playing poker is situational. The famous player may have been calculating or luring his/her opponent into this one hand.

                                                             POKERMANTIS.COM

HOW TO CALCULATE HAND ODDS

Learn to calculate poker hand odds


How to Calculate Hand Odds

Ever wonder how they calculate the percentage chance of winning when you watch Poker on TV on shows like the World Poker Tour? Well, wonder no more- you will know how to do this yourself in one minute.

1. Count your total number of outs. In other words, the number of cards that will give you a winning hand.
2. When the flop is dealt, mutliply you number of outs by 4.
This gives you the percentage chance of you winning the hand.
3. When the turn card is drawn, these odds are halved as you have one less card to draw.

It is that simple!
Count your Outs, Multiply by Four, Halve on the Turn

Here is an example to demonstrate
Your Hole Cards: J(h) 10(h)
Flop:4(h) Q(h) 9(d)
So the winning hands you can make are:
A Flush- any heart, you have 4 of 13 hearts so there are 9 hearts you can hit.
A Straight- you have 9, 10, J, Q. So an 8 or a King will give you a straight.
8 more outs.
Total number of outs: 9 + 8 = 17
Then multiply this by 4 to get your percentage change of winning, 4 x 17 = 68%
These odds then half if you fail to hit on the turn…combine these odds with Pot odds and you cannot lose.


                                                  POKERMANTIS.COM

LEARN TEXAS HOLD EM

Starting Hands Tables


Phil Hellmuth’s How to play Poker like the Pros starting table

Tier Hands Category Our advice
1 AA, KK, QQ, AKs, AK Top 12 Hands Raise/re-raise(never call)
2 JJ, TT, 99 Top 12 hands Raise(or call if raised)
3 AQs, 88, 77 Top 12 Hands Raise(or call if raised)
4 AJs, ATs, A9s, A8s Majority Play Hands A? J? 6? 4? 2?
5 A7s, A6s, A5s, A4s, A3s, A2s, KQs, KQ Majority Play Hands Call if raised, fold if re-reraised
6 QJs, JTs, T9s, 98s, 87s, 76s, 65s Suited Connectors Call, fold if raised/re-reraised

Sklansky’s groups

Tier Hands Our advice
1 AA, KK, QQ, JJ, AKs Raise/re-raise(never call)
2 TT, AQs, AJs, AK, KQs Raise(or call if raised)
3 ATs, KJs, AQ, 99, QJs, KTs Raise(or call if raised)
4 88, QTs, A9s, AJ, JTs, KQ, A8s, AT Call if raised, fold is reraised
5 K9s, A7s, KJ, A5s, Q9s, T9s Call, fold if raised/re-raised
6 77, J9s, A6s, QJ, A4s, KT Call, fold if raised/re-raised
7 QT, A3s, K8s, JT, A2s, Q8s Fold if beginner. Otherwise…call, fold if raised/re-raised
8 T8s, K7s, 98s, 66, J8sT Fold if beginner. Otherwise…call, fold if raised/re-raised

COMMON MISTAKES PLAYING POKER

Mistake 1: Fancy bluffs can be fatal


Ever seen the movie Maverick? Don’t be fooled into thinking poker is just like the Hollywood movies. Making hard core bluffs like all-ins with a high card of 9 is best left to pros. Get a lot of experience playing low stakes and then work your way up before even attempting these maneuvers.

Note that you are still supposed to make bluffs – just strategic ones. When you have a strong hand like JJ (pre-flop) then you bluff by raising so that your opponent will fold. Keep odds in mind as you bluff – if after the flop there is a J then raise again. Even if your opponent may has a KK they will think twice before trying to call you. The amount you raise should be strategic. Remember that playing to the river increases your stake exponentially.


Mistake 2: Do not give away information


Do not give your opponents more information about you. It’s tempting to send messages or talk during the game but it also gives your opponents valuable insight into your state of mind. Continuing to repeat this pattern will give opponents more time to study you and know your “tells.”

Experienced players can read “tells”. How you say something gives them a good idea about your cards. Some professionals are said to even be able to get a gauge on the strength of your cards. Keep your focus and avoid giving away information. There’s no rule that you says you have to engage in small talk or answer your opponents.

Mistake 3: Not quitting while you’re ahead


It’s normal to lose in poker. You aren’t supposed to win them all. In fact some people can lose several times in a row, but it does hit you emotionally and mentally. If you keep playing just so you could win once you may end up in a bigger mess than before. You’re emotional at this point and might make an emotional call. Set a limit for yourself – I will quit if I lose 50 dollars or lose 7 times in a row – then stick with it.

Believe it or not, it’s the same for winning. A winning streak can also make you emotional and make you overconfident. You might end up making a foolish bluff only to lose it all. Or you might join higher stakes tables thinking you’re ready to take on sharks. It is imperative that you know when to quit.

Give your mind time to readjust and process the events. Whether you win or lose, treat yourself. Go to an all you can eat buffet. Why do you think Vegas has so many cheap all-you-can eats? Chat with your friends – you might gain some valuable insight from different perspectives.


               
                                                 POKERMANTIS.COM
 

Sunday, February 24, 2013

PRACTICE WHAT YOU PREACH

Poker Pro: Do You Practice What You Preach?




Being a poker player is certainly not an easy job. As a poker pro, you have to deal with high levels of responsibility and pressure. Expectations are very high, no matter where they come from.

Take the expectations of those who you lead, for example: they expect you to motivate, inspire and guide them. They want you to be courageous, wise, fair and credible. They turn to you when no one knows what to do. They look up to you and hope you are the one who does the right thing. It may sound like a lot, but that’s what for them – it justifies your  poker knowledge.

If you fulfill those expectations, chances are that the influence you exert is big. And influence is crucial in gaining your team’s willingness to coordinate their efforts towards organizational goals. As I write this article,
I would like to let my poker followers know that is not easy becoming a poker pro. Each poker tournament or cash game you play, you are constantly learning and adapting to a new environments. The time and efforts you are dedicating as you are gaining more experience from each game you play. As any career out there, the more you know the better you get at it, poker is all about this. As you are getting better, the deeper and closer you are reaching your goal. Your main goal is to master this game and become successful at it. Each game you play, you must always have a strategy to achieve your main goal. And besides that, your goal should always be winning big, always use the power of attraction. Always bring a positive attitude to any tournament or cash game you play.

As you are becoming a successful poker player, one of the problems we all encounter is bankroll issues. You must have control of your bankroll and do not spend your hard earn winnings playing another casino game such as roulette, black jack or even worse, casino slot machines. Now you are a poker pro and you must learn how to maintain a healthy bankroll so you can move on to your next level of tournaments. We all do get tempted to double up our bankroll by trying another game but is doesn't work that way. Some people get derailed fast and after spending 12 plus hours playing poker and winning big, they don't know how to manage this new profound wealth. At the end, they end-up losing all of their winnings and going back to another tournament hoping to win again.

Do you have what it takes to become a successful poker player? Are you ready to practice what you preach?

                                                POKERMANTIS.COM

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

POKER VOCABULARY 1-2-3

Donkey

Stupid, weak player of stupid move.
Usage: Like in sentence "Let's go to this poker room. it is full of donkeys"

Fish

A player who loses money. An old saying is "If you can't spot the fish at the table, *you* are the fish."

Pigeon

An easy player such as Kamikaze Marc. 

Shark

A good/crafty player often posing as a fish early in the game.

Vultures

From PokerMantis vocabulary, a group of poker players waiting to devour your stack, constantly looking at your stack and waiting for you to get hurt so they can clean you out.

 

Aggressive

Adjective to describe a player who raises and re-raises and rarely calls.
Usage: Like in sentence "John is really an aggressive player".

Anna Kournikova

A name for A-K starting hand.
Usage: So called because "it looks great but doesn't win anything".

American Airlines

Two Aces.
Usage: This is a name of card combinations which was succesfully used by some player and historically called American Airlines. Abbreviated signing of this term is A-A.

Belly Buster

A draw and/or catch to an Inside Straight.
Usage: Like in sentence "Harry hit his 4-out belly buster on the river."

Bankroll

The amount of money you have.
Usage: Many serious poker players have a separate bankroll just for poker. If you bankroll someone, you are giving them money to play with, usually in exchange for a percent of their profit. Like in sentence "She doubled her bankroll after 1 month of playing the PartyPoker."

Bet in the Dark

To announce a bet before cards are dealt or looking at your hand.
Usage: Like in sentence "Phil announced a $5000 bet in the dark before the flop cards were dealt".

Bet for Value

Bet a hand with the intention of getting called by one or more lesser hands, as opposed to getting the others to fold. Usually implies betting a hand that has only a slight edge, and one that a conservative player would likely check with. Also value bet.

Big Slick

A hand that contains an Ace and a King (A-K).
Usage: Used in hold'em games, also known as Santa Barbara.

Backer

A nonplayer who finances an active player.
Usage: Like in sentece "How you gonna get into the tournament? I thought you were broke." "I have a backer."

Check-Raise

When a player first checks and then raises in a betting round.
Usage: This is done in an attempt to "trap" an opponent into betting to extract more chips/cash from them.

Counterfeit

To make your hand less valuable because of board cards that duplicate it. Example: you have 87 and the flop comes 9-T-J, so you have a straight. Now an 8 comes on the turn. This has counterfeited your hand and made it almost worthless.

Cheese

A very substandard starting hand.
Usage: Like in sentence: After being dealt Seven, Two again Howard announced "Nothing but cheese again!"

Coffeehousing

This is when Players chat about a hand they are involved in, with the intent of misleading or manipulating other Players.

Conservative

(of a poker player or play) tending to bet only with a good hand.

Dead Man's Hand

Two pair - Aces and Eights.
Usage: According to a legend, Wild Bill Hickok was shot during a poker game in Deadwood, South Dakota, and that the hand he held was two pair, black aces and black eights. The fifth card is not known for certain.

There is also a computer game about these cowboys.

Dead Money

Chips that are taken into the center of the pot because they are not considered part of a particular player’s bet.
Usage: Used to describe an inexperienced player with little chance of winning.

Double Belly Buster

A two-way inside straight. ie:, 3-5-6-7-9. Also called a Double Gutshot. 

Fifth Street

Also known as the "river" card. In flop games, this represents the fifth community card on the table and the final round of betting. In Stud games, this is the fifth card dealt to each player and represents the third round of betting.  

Fishhooks

Slang for Jacks.

Hit And Run

The act of joining a poker game, winning big in a short period of time, and leaving the table.

Iron Duke

An unbeatable hand (Ironclad Hand).

Late Position

Position on a round of betting where the player must act after most of the other players have acted (usually considered to be the two positions next to the button). 

Hitchhiker

A player who comes into a pot cheaply as the victim of a trap.  

Middle Position

Somewhere between the early and late positions on a round of betting (the fifth, sixth and seventh seats to the left of the button). 

Early Position

Position on a round of betting where the player must act before most of the other players at the table. (It's considered the two positions located to the left of the Blinds. )  

Maniac

A very aggressive player who plays a lot of hands such as my friend Kamikaze Marc.

Monster

A very big hand. In a tournament, a player who begins to accumulate chips after having a small stack is considered to be a monster.  

Muck

To discard or throw away your hand. It's also a pile of cards that are no longer in play. 

Komodo Dragoned

When a players hand is defeated because of an opponent completing a straight or flush on the river.  

Nuts

The best possible hand at any point of the game. A hand that cannot be beat. 

Open-ended Straight

Four consecutive cards whereby one additional (consecutive) card is needed at either end to make a straight. 

Passive

Checking and calling hands rather betting and raising hands.

Pegging

A cheater's technique to mark cards with his fingernail or a device

Raise Blind

1) To raise without looking at one's cards.
2) A forced raise.

Semi-Bluff

Betting with a mediocre or drawing hand.

Steal the Blinds

To win a small pot consisiting of only blinds by betting a weak hand and having other players fold.

Solid

A fairly tight player (and reasonably good).

Pay Station

A player who rarely folds, thus who frequently calls better hands and loses.

Calling Station

A passive and loose player who does not raise much, but calls more than he or she should.
Usage: Also known as "Policeman" these type of players rarely bluff.

Whore

A queen.

Wash

To Shuffle. 

Zombie

A poker player with no tells (see tell), one who has a poker face, shows no emotion, and otherwise exhibits no behavior to give away his holdings.  Jun plays like a zombie.

                                                 POKERMANTIS.COM

Sunday, February 3, 2013

PLAYING POSITION PREFLOP

Tip: Playing position preflop
Explanation: Playing winning poker comes from playing the right cards in the right position. As with all the other tips, take this tip with a grain of salt. Every hand is different, and you have to incorporate these concepts with the situation at hand to come up with the correct decision.
If you ask any player what the best position is in poker, the answer will probably be the button. Why? You are the last to act postflop, you are in perfect steal position preflop, and you can get into the pot with more marginal hands than in any other position.
Situation 1: You have Q-J under the gun (the first player after the blinds). What do you do?
Ninety-nine percent of you probably agree that folding is the correct play here. The other one percent is probably calling a raise with 9-3 looking to hitting a straight on the flop (yes, I know that doesn't make sense). Q-J is not a very strong hand and calling with this in early position can get you caught in a really bad situation if someone were to play KQ or AQ. As you move on to middle/late position, QJ becomes a better hand, one that is worth opening the pot with a raise if nobody has entered it yet.
Opening the pot with a marginal hand in early position is a losing play because chances are high that someone after you will raise with a better hand. As your position gets later, the chance of someone after you with a better hand gets smaller.
On the button, Q-J is a must-raise hand if nobody has entered the pot. In any position, if you are the first to enter the pot, make sure you raise. You might as well raise and try to get some players with marginal hands behind you out of the way.
Situation 2: You have Q-J on the button and a player before you has called. What do you do?
Calling here is the correct move as you have the positional advantage over any player during this hand. If you miss the flop, but it is checked to you, you should try a feeler bet to see where everyone else is in the hand. If you really hit the flop (i.e., flopping broadway) and a player bets into you, you are in great position for a raise.
Calling (after someone has already called) with hands like K-Q to K-9, Q-9 to Q-J, J-10, A-x, and suited connectors are perfectly acceptable in this position. You are getting into the pot with a big drawing hand in great position. If you hit, you will be stacking the chips in no time.
As I mentioned a couple paragraphs ago, this is the reason why you should always raise when opening the pot. Even on the button, calling a raise with A-x is just asking for trouble. With the raise, the marginal hands will be eliminated, and you win the pot.
Situation 3: You have Q-J on the button and a player before you has raised. What do you do?
Knowing your table is the factor here. If a really tight player has raised it up, throwing away your Q-J is the way to go. However, if a loose, wild player raises it up, you might be throwing away the best hand. The amount of the raise and if someone else has already called should affect your decision as well. Even though you are in position here, you may not have a hand that is close to matching up with that of the other players.
Situation 4: You have 5-5 in middle position, what should you do?
As I mentioned before, raising is the way to go with this hand if you are willing to play it (and the first to enter the pot). However, there are some players who like to limp in with this kind of hand for the sake of just seeing a flop. The same goes for a hand like Q-J and J-10, where you are truly drawing because the strength of your starting hand won't hold up if it goes to a showdown. Seeing a cheap flop is very valuable, so make sure if you are at a table with a player like this and they limp, they could have just about anything.
On a more general note, players that open up the pot with a raise from under the gun usually signify a big to really big hand. Make sure that you are both aware of this, and use it to your advantage if you think your table image is good enough to steal from first position.

                                                                      POKERMANTIS.COM

PLAYING POCKET PAIRS

Tip: Pocket pairs preflop
Explanation: Some of the toughest hands to play start with a pocket pair. Although this is a difficult subject to discuss due to the varying schools of thought, playing a pocket pair can be profitable if you make the right decisions in the right positions. There are generally two ways to play pocket pairs before the flop: limping into a multi-player pot in the hopes of hitting a set and raising to cut down on the number of players you'll face. Keep in mind that early in a tournament, seeing cheap flops with pocket pairs is very advantageous. If you hit a set early on, chances are you will be paid off and take an early chip lead.
2-2, 3-3, 4-4
Quick hit: Although a pair of ducks, threes or fours will win 51 percent of the time against two overcards, these are not the hands where you invest a lot of your chips. Play these hands in middle to late position, but understand that if you miss the flop, you should get rid of them very quickly. Some people like to limp with these hands, but limping allows other weaker hands to join into the action and I'd rather limit the amount of competition than have to outdraw a couple of players.
Early position: Fold. It's not worth it. Everyone is left to act after you and if someone raises, what are you going to do? It's only a 51 percent to 53 percent chance, so pick your spots a little better. Some people believe that if you are going to play these hands in early position, then raising is the way to go. A raise here signifies a bigger hand, and if people are going to lay down their hands to you, it might be a good move. However, if you do not have a good table image, throwing them away is the right idea.
Middle position: I'd still be very cautious here, but if you insist on entering the pot, raise it up. You are probably ahead preflop if nobody else raises, but run if you face any resistance. If someone else has called before you, a call is OK, as long as it is cheap enough for you to gamble. If someone raised ahead of you, get out.
Late position: At this point with these hands, if you are the first to enter the pot, do so with a raise. Playing these cards this way will reduce the amount of opponents that will enter the pot and there is a good chance you will steal the blinds by acting strong. If there are callers ahead of you, by all means try and hit your set.
Blinds: If you have a pocket pair like this in the small blind and there are limpers, by all means see a flop. If there is a raise ahead of you, you need to remember you are completely out of position after the flop and folding is the correct play. If it is just you and the big blind, raise it up. Chances are, he doesn't have a pocket pair as well.
5-5, 6-6, 7-7, 8-8
Quick hit: The middle pocket pairs are as tricky as the smaller ones, but will allow you a little more flexibility when making your decision. Playing these hands to hit your set is the optimal outcome, but stealing the blinds with these hands is usually a result depending on what position you enter the pot. As mentioned earlier, some people like to limp with these hands. I'm not a fan of limping into pots, so if I'm playing these cards, I'm probably raising.
Early position: Two options: raise or fold. With 5-5, 6-6 and 7-7, your table image will have to play a big factor in to how you are going to play it. If you can represent a real strong hand with a raise here, then by all means, go for it. If you know you can't, maybe this isn't your spot. Pocket 8s is moving into the realm of a stronger hand and I think raising here is a good play. If you are reraised by another player in later position, you will be out of position for the rest of the hand if you were to call. Understand your opponents, and if it's someone you feel you can outplay after the flop, call. If not, onto the next hand.
Middle position: Learn to say, "Raise." If you are the first to enter the pot, raising here is a must. You have a solid hand with only a couple of players behind you. If there is a caller ahead of you, calling is OK as well, since you have position on this player. If the caller is a loose player, make him pay for trying to enter the pot by raising it and taking him out of the equation. If someone has raised ahead of you, you need to think about who raised you, how strong their hand could be, and your position. If you are getting the right price, calling is a good idea, but be cautious postflop.
Late position: Play the cards similarly to middle position. One main difference will be that if there are a bunch of limpers into the pot, raising from late position will eliminate some of those players and still keep you in position against anyone that calls.
Blinds: In the small blind with these hands, calling or raising is the way to go. If you are heads-up with the big blind, putting in a raise is a must. If you are in the big blind facing a couple callers, checking is a good idea as it will give you a free shot to hit your set. If you feel you can take the hand down with a raise, overbet the pot and take it home.
9-9, 10-10, the death hand (J-J)
Quick hit: I hate pocket jacks. Who doesn't? Even though I hate them, they, along with 9s and 10s, are still extremely playable hands in just about any position. They aren't premium hands, so don't play them that way, but they will win you some big pots if played correctly.
Early position: I know what you are thinking, how could he tell us to raise with 9-9 preflop? Well, if you are going to play 9-9, you need to raise. Raising these three hands from early position will reduce the competition. If a player in earlier position than yourself raises, I'd be extremely careful of playing this pot, but if you have a good read, go for it.
Middle position: Entering the pot with these pairs is a must unless you face a lot of resistance. Be aggressive with these hands, because you aren't going to pick them up too often. Also remember that it's better to win a small pot than lose a big one, which is completely possible with these hands. If a player ahead of you has raised, you can call since you are in position, or reraise and put the pressure back on that player. Since there are more players to act after you, I would be tentative to reraise unless you are sure that it will create a heads-up situation.
Late position: If you are the first to enter the pot with these hands in late position, if you don't raise, you either (A) are praying you get outdrawn or (B) like to lose pots that you should win uncontested. Raising here will usually take care of the blinds, unless they wake up with a big hand. If a player ahead of you has raised, you can call since you are in position, or reraise and put the pressure back on that player.
Blinds: In either the small or big blind facing callers, a raise is necessary, that should eliminate some competition. If there is a raise ahead of you, a call is probably best. If you are facing a raise, then a reraise, you've got to lay them down.
Q-Q, K-K, A-A
Quick hit: Raise early, raise middle, raise late, raise often. Everyone loves these hands. Why wouldn't you? If you are holding any of these, there are so few hands that could beat you preflop (none if you have aces), that you need to be aggressive.
Early position: Raise. I'm not a fan of the theory that if you limp in with a big pocket pair preflop, you are going to get reraised and then you can reraise that person. It just doesn't happen that way. What if nobody raises, the big blind checks and the flop comes 2-3-4 and your opponent has 5-6? You need to get the junk hands out of the way, no matter what hand you hold. Every hand you hold has the potential to get outdrawn.
Middle position: This is the spot where you get a lot of the chips into the pot. If a player limps ahead of you, raise. If a player raises ahead of you, reraise to get more of their chips in the pot. You need to build the pot preflop, then take it. There is no benefit to you limping with these hands.
Late position: I'm almost breaking the record for most times in a column with the word raise in it, but I'm not worried about that. Raise! Play these hands strong, because that's what they are. Put in as many chips into the pot as you think your opponent will call.
Blinds: You guessed it: raise. The big blind should never check with a premium hand. Build the pot any way possible.
Additional note on premium hands in relation to online poker: When a strong opponent online raises the minimum, that should send up some red flags warning you that he or she has a monster pocket pair. People use the "min. raise" button online to build the pot, because almost any online player will call the minimum raise.

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BET WITH A PURPOSE

Tip: Bet the right amount. Bet with a purpose.
Thoughts during the hand: Am I trying to build the pot? Am I trying to avoid a call from a player on a draw? Am I trying to steal the pot with a bluff?
Explanation: Understanding why and how much you bet after the flop is a key part to the game.
How much is the right amount to bet? Usually betting a good portion of the pot is the way to go, but there is no definitive answer here. There are many ways to look at postflop betting through the different types of bets.
The probe bet
Why you should use it: The probe bet is used to figure out where you and your opponents are in the hand. Are you ahead or behind? If you pick your spots right, you can win the pot with a probe bet. Most of the time, it's not that easy.
Depending on how your opponents react to this bet will give you more information on their hands. Additionally, by putting out a probe bet, you can also put the amount of chips you want into the pot instead of your opponent choosing the number. If you are willing to see the next card for 200 chips and your opponent calls your bet instead of raising, you are getting the card for exactly the right price that you had hoped. The bet size should range from a quarter of the pot to half the pot.
The continuation bet
Why you should use it: The continuation bet is to be used only by the person who raised preflop and is the first person to put chips into the pot. If you raise preflop, it's almost mandatory (not really, but it should be) that you bet the flop. After all, who really hits their hand on the flop? The continuation bet should be around half of the size of the pot. The bettor is hoping to pick up the pot here, and unless he actually hit the flop, if any resistance is seen, most likely he or she is beat.
The "Building the pot" bet
Why you should use it: To get maximum value out of your hand. You've hit the flop, the turn, whatever, and you need to get chips in the pot in a hurry. You are playing the hand to win as many chips as possible, so here's where you bet just enough that your opponent is still thinking that he has a chance in the hand.
How much should you bet? Nothing less than half the pot should be acceptable in this situation. However, the key to building the pot is to put a bet out there that your opponent will call. You need to "walk the dog" and make sure your opponent puts his chips into the pot.
The "Can you just please let your draw go" bet
Without getting too much into pot odds, you need to make sure that if there is a straight or flush draw possible, your bets need to discourage your opponents from calling. End the hand right there, don't let them see another card. It's better to win a small pot than to lose a big one.
Really, really quickly, if your opponent is on a flush draw after the flop, you should bet more than "33 percent of the pot to get him off the draw and force him to make a mistake," said Phil Gordon. "If you bet more than a third of the pot, they are making a mistake to call you from a pot odds perspective."
That said, Gordon also noted that he'd bet at least half or two thirds of the pot to make your opponent make a bigger mistake.
Anything less, and your opponent will have the right price to call your bet. After the turn, you need to make sure that you put in a bet that is more than a third of the pot again. Your opponent will need a bet less than 33% of the pot to make the call. For an open-ended straight draw, you'll need to bet more than 30 percent on the flop and river as well. Over-betting the pot is a great way to discourage callers who are on draws.
Manipulating the pot size is a very delicate thing as you can see here. Additionally, if you believe that an all-in bet would get them off their hands, it may be the way to go. Put enough chips in the pot so that your opponents need to choose between risking their chips on a draw or folding.
Never give your opponent the right price to call. Keep reading that until it sinks it. If you bet the minimum bet and your opponent hits his draw and busts you, don't blame him for being a donkey and sucking out, blame yourself for betting too little.
"The first in wins"
Remember the phrase, "The first in wins." When you are either heads-up or involved in a three-way pot, chances are, the first person that bets wins the pot. This bet is very important to remember when your opponents are tighter players. If they come over the top of you, you can always just lay the hand down. This type of bet should be treated in the same way as a probe bet as far as the amount of chips you are willing to put into the pot.
Remember that you should always know why you are betting. Make sure that you choose the right one for the right circumstance and that you are putting chips into the middle only when you think you have a good reason.

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BIG CHIPS AT THE BUBBLE

Explanation: Let's face it, people like money! They like winning too, but they really like money. When the bubble approaches, there are two types of players:
1. "The Winner," who wants to well … win. Duh. He's not content with finishing fourth and making some money. He wants the title.
2. "The Hoper" or "Fish who never made it this far before and is really nervous about cashing," is the type of player just happy to make the money. This player is just happy to be going home with a little more than he started with.
Which type of player are you? Will you fold down A-Q on the button since there are only two players left before cashing and both the blinds have bigger stacks than you or do you push the hand hard, forcing the bigger stacks to make a big decision?
OK, let's look at what to do from the bubble with three different-sized stacks.
The short stack: You have the biggest bull's-eye on your forehead than anyone has ever seen. Everyone wants to knock you out, and you need to decide when the chips are going into the middle, not vice versa. Find a hand that you can push with when you're in position, but don't wait too long or else the following may happen:
If you are truly hanging by a thread and pushing your chips into the middle makes your opponents laugh more than worry, you've got to pick your best hand in any position and go with it. Got an ace? It might be time to kiss that chip stack equivalent to the small blind good-bye. You will get multiple callers and hopefully do more than double up.
As the shortest stack in the tournament, you really can't take advantage by stealing blinds. Everyone is hoping you get knocked out next and will probably call you with weaker hands. Hopefully they do. For that reason you may be able to double up and bring yourself back to an average stack.
The average stack: The bubble is where you can take an average stack and make it an above-average stack. If you are at the bubble, chances are the blinds are high and stealing them will help you pad your chip count a great deal.
Start playing more position and stealing pots when you can. Remember that the short stacks are clinging to dear life, so you need to make sure that when you put a raise into a short stack, you must be willing to call the rest of the short stack's chips if he pushes and, of course, if the math is right.
Although you are targeting other players who have fewer chips than you, the bigger stacks will be targeting you. Make sure you tread with caution in any hand you get involved with, because it could be your last.
The big stack: Nobody wants to mess with you. Sure, the short stacks are hoping you make a big mistake and push when you shouldn't, but everyone at the table knows that getting involved in a pot with you could mean the end of their tournament lives.
By being the big stack, here's your chance to greatly increase your chip count. Learn the word "raise" and keep using it until someone puts up a fight. You'll be the table captain, in control of all the action.
Steal from everyone at the table, but mostly the players with the average stacks. By targeting them, you won't get yourself into trouble where you could double up a player who is very short stacked.
Make the right moves here and you'll be on your way to the final table.

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PLAY IN POSITION

Perhaps the most important aspect of poker is position. Having position in a hand allows you to act after you have seen all your other opponents act, gives you the opportunity to make the last bluff, and allows you to get a free card when you really need it.
Let's take those ideas and break them down.
Having position allows you to act after you have seen all your opponents act.

If you're on the button, you'll get to watch every other player at your table decide what they'd like to do with their hands. Make sure you watch these players because they could be giving away some vital information about the strength of their hands.
There are times when players reach for their chips before it's their turn. In this situation, a player probably has a strong hand and is thinking about betting it. Use the time before your turn to act wisely, because players give away more information than they'd like by simply looking at their cards.
Watching these players will also help you figure out if the aggressive player at your table will raise or if the loose player will call before it's your turn to act. With this knowledge, you can determine how you'll play the hand, if you decide to play it.
Another positional advantage that you have is the ability to see a cheap flop. Have a couple players already limped into the pot? All of a sudden your 9-7 suited is a playable hand because of the other callers. If you hit the flop, great! If you don't and you think you can take down the pot with a bet, go for it and read the following paragraph.
Having position allows you to make the last bluff.
Situation: There are three other players involved in the pot and they check to you. You are pretty sure they would've bet if they had hit the flop. Meanwhile, you've got nothing. Not even a high card. But you throw in a bet of half the pot because of your position, and they all fold their hands.
Why wouldn't you bet there? Your opponents have shown weakness and taking advantage of it is almost a necessity. By having position, you can get a read on your opponents because they all act before you. This positional advantage will allow you to win hands that you should have no business winning if cards were the only things that mattered. When you've got it, use it. Position is power.
Having position allows you to get a free card when you really need it.
There are a lot of times when you'd like to chase your draw, but the odds just aren't right to do so after an opponent bets out. However, if you're in position, you've got the opportunity to check to see a free card, one that could give you the nuts. There are times when you need to bet your big draw (open-ended straight/flush) in this position, but there are also times to check and see the free card.
It's all about the math.
Mathematically, a player will miss the flop two out of three times. If you are in position and playing against a predictable player who will bet if he hits the flop and checks if he misses the flop, then you will be able to pick up two out of three pots that way with a bet.
Think about it this way, if a tight, predictable player raises from middle position, you can call with just about anything knowing that if he misses that flop, the pot is yours.

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STEAL THE BLINDS

Let's face it: Playing only the cards in your hand won't lead you to the final table all the time. Poker is a game of skill, and you need to take advantage of situations when you see them. One of the most important situations that you can take advantage of is being in late position. After discussing playing position last week, I felt I needed to follow it up with a tip about something you can do in late position preflop: Steal the blinds.
Stealing the blinds is necessary when trying to increase your chip stack without getting too involved in big pots. As John Bonetti put it, if the blinds are considered driftwood, you need to everything you can to accumulate the driftwood.
The majority of players recommend that the button steal is the way to go. Raising three to four times the big blind with any two cards from the button will put pressure on the blinds to either defend their hands or fold and let you have the pot. Additionally, raising from this position ensures that for the rest of the hand you will have position on your opponent if they were to call.
The only problem with the button steal is that it has become a predictable move. These days, many players in the small blind (or even the big blind) will reraise the button to see if he's got a real hand. Getting this extra information out of a player will not only help you win this pot, but also put in your mind that this player has the potential to make a move like this. Be sure to understand that if a player makes this move once, he'll do it again if he thinks you'll back down.
Considering the button steal is becoming predictable, the cutoff seat has taken over as the place to make the move. Raising from the cutoff seat (one to the right of the button), allows you to take the button away from the player in the dealer seat and limits his opportunities to make a move from his position. You essentially steal his button (if he folds) and then can take on the blinds with position the rest of the hand.
What's the risk of the cutoff seat steal?
Instead of only needing to force two hands to fold from the button -- the small and big blind -- you are now facing a third opponent. If the player on the button calls, you're now out of position and need to hope that you hit the flop or make a solid bluff if you want to win the pot.
No matter where you steal the blinds from, there are a couple key things to remember:
1. Your position: If you are in early position, you'll need to go through nine other players (at a full table) in order to steal the blinds. You want to blind steal only from favorable positions -- the middle to late positions.
2. Your hand: If you attempt a blind steal and get called, you better at least give yourself a chance once the flop is dealt by holding a playable hand. I'm not talking about blind stealing only with A-K. I'm talking about a small suited connector or a one-gap hand such as 6-8. With drawing hands like suited connectors, you can hit a flop, even if you were never intending to play the hand.
3. Know the big blind: If the big blind defends his hand no matter what, you shouldn't go after that person. Is the big blind an extremely tight player? If so, then you've found your target -- fire away with just about any two cards.
4. Stack size: If your opponent is short-stacked to the point where any raise will force him to go all-in, make sure you have a hand to back yourself up. If you're going to raise a short-stacked player, there will be a showdown, so try to go in with the best hand possible. Remember, you are not responsible for knocking this player out. If you don't have the cards in this situation, wait for a better time. The same goes for attacking the chip leader. He's got the chips to make a loose call with a weaker hand. Make sure you attack the average-size stacks because they'll be more willing to throw their hands away.
5. Image is everything: If you are perceived as a tight player, take advantage of it by stealing some blinds. They'll think you've got a hand and let it go. On the other hand, if your opponents are beating your preflop raise into the pot, you've got some work to do before you can attempt a steal.

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DON'T GET TOO SHORT STACKED

Why: Although this might seem like a trivial tip of the week, it's something that a lot of players merely ignore.
Example: You've got 400 in chips, blinds are 100/200 and you push with As-Ks. Everyone folds down to the small blind who calls with J-9 and the big blind who calls you with 10-7.
The good: You are ahead and you have a 45 percent chance of winning this hand. Also, by winning this hand, you can triple up and get back into the game.
The bad: You have to beat out two opponents who both have live cards and probably will check the hand down to ensure that they will see all five community cards.
The ugly: By only having double the big blind, you mathematically committed the big blind to call, no matter what he has. You just added another opponent to compete for your chips. Getting all your chips in heads up is the goal, unfortunately here, that didn't happen with the three-way pot.
The unlucky: Should you be surprised that a 7 hit the flop? No. Upset? Yes. But surprised, no. The turn and river are blanks and you are out. That's poker.
By not having enough chips to make a real raise before the flop (real meaning about 3-3.5 times the big blind), you're asking for callers, but you might get more than you were hoping for.
When should you start to get worried?:
Many players believe that at 10 times the big blind you should start thinking about pushing all in if you're going to play a hand. You're putting the pressure on your opponents to call a big raise and making sure that players with junk hands won't call (unless they're ridiculously loose).
Pushing with 10 times the big blind also will let you steal the blinds a good amount of the times and allow you to build your stack. Once you are under 10 times, this strategy might not work as well.
If you get down to anything under five big blinds, you've only got one move: all in. At this point, you can't call with 6-6 and pray that you hit the flop. Any pocket pair or even ace with a strong kicker should be considered good enough to move in with. Take that risk. You need to. Odds are by the time you pick up a hand, you'll only have a couple chips left.
Another strategy: When you're getting close to 13-15 times the big blind, it's time to start thinking about risking all your chips. Re-raise all in against the tighter players and see if you can take down some small pots to avoid getting super-short stacked.
The most important thing? Don't give up. A chip and a chair is all you need. Just ask 1982 WSOP Champion Jack Straus, who found one last chip underneath the rail and began a historic comeback.

                                                             POKERMANTIS.COM

BE PATIENT AT EARLY TOURNAMENT STAGES

Situation: I received an e-mail last week discussing a hand that perfectly represents this tip. Blinds are 10/20, the first 30 minutes of a large multitable tournament. In the big blind this player was dealt Qd-Js. There are two callers (one under the gun, one in late position), and with the small blind folding, he would be first to act.
The flop comes Qh-Qc-3c and obviously the big blind is excited. He bets out 40 chips into the pot of 70. Good bet, maybe a little small due to the possible flush draw out there, but he wanted to see where he was in the hand.
The under the gun player reraises immediately and pushes all-in for 1,980 chips. Yes, that's overbetting the pot.
The big blind thinks about the hands that this player could have: A-A, K-K, A-Q, K-Q, or 3-3. Which one of these would he limp from under the gun with? After deliberating and thinking that maybe the player has an overpair (aces or kings), he calls. Only to see that his opponent has A-Q and has just busted him out of the tournament.
Should he have called?
Explanation: Probably not. I know I'm saying this after we know what happened (hindsight is 20-20), but it's extremely early in the tournament, there are plenty of better spots that you can choose. Unless you know your hand is good, you need to get out of that hand and wait for a better spot. It's a tough hand to get away from, but you have to be patient.
Multitable poker tournaments aren't a race. The first person to 25,000 chips doesn't win, it's whoever has the chips at the end of the last day. Getting involved in a huge pot early on is an extremely risky proposition unless you have the nuts.
This player invested 60 chips into this pot. When the rest of his tournament life was put at risk, it was still only 60 chips that he had invested.
As this player said, "The best move would be to realize that I only had 60 chips committed. [I needed] to turn off the dollar signs going off in my head and the idea of doubling up early, and realize that it's too early to push it all in without the nuts."
Patience is one of the necessary characteristics of a winning poker player. Know when to pick your spots. In a big-stack tournament, you have plenty of chips to play with. Make sure you are around long enough to use them.

                                                        POKERMANTIS.COM

RE-RAISE TO ISOLATE PLAYERS

Situation: The blinds are 400/800. A tight player in middle position with a short stack goes all-in for 4,000. You've got Q-Q with a big stack and are pretty sure that he's got a smaller pocket pair. You just call. Another solid player calls behind you.
The flop comes A-K-4.
Uh-oh.
He bets. You know you are beat and lay the pocket queens down. He shows A-K and knocks out the short stack, who had 7-7. Yes it was a tough call for the winner since you had already called the all-in, but he sits at the table rationalizing what he had you and the other player on. He read you for J-J and figured that he had a coin flip situation and was getting 3-to-1 to call.
What went wrong in this situation: The major mistake that you made was not reraising with Q-Q. You can never just assume that because you call another player's all-in that nobody will call you. You need to take measures to isolate you and your opponent.
With a premium hand such as Q-Q, you need to know that it is extremely strong before the flop. However, if an ace or king comes out, you could be in big trouble.
So what should you have done? Reraise to 12,000 or more. The solid player behind you knows that you (as a tight, aggressive player) would only do this with a hand that you think will take this pot down and knock out the other player.
You ask him if you reraised before the flop what he would have done.
"I'd have folded. You've got a good image and have been showing down monsters today."
One last tip, The Golden Rule: No, not that golden rule, but that does apply at the poker table.
Feldman's Golden Rule of Poker (Why not? Everyone else has one?): Never call another player's all-in if it has already been called and you are sure you either (a) don't have the best hand or (b) don't have the right price.
You never want to triple a player up. There are situations where you need to make this call (for example: where you are priced in, on the bubble in a satellite), and if you are sure you have the best hand at this point, you should reraise and isolate the initial all-in player.
Even though there are times you just want to knock a player out, you should remember that he comes back three times as strong if you make the wrong play.

                                                              POKERMANTIS.COM

ELEVENTH MOST POWERFUL POKER TIPS

Something is missing from your poker education. It's like a gaping hole in the universe, a river of white, torn through the pure dark sky. It's like… well, I don't exactly know what it's like, but I'm here to do something about it.
I figure you can't play poker at a world-class level if you only know 10 things. So why are there so many top-10 lists? Is the 11th tip so much less credible than the 10th? I say no. I say that there's sometimes little difference between the best tip and the 53rd "best" tip. (There might be a significant gap between 53 and 54, though - I haven't analyzed it that far.) Wanna share a secret? Okay, I suspect that experts don't pay a lot of attention to what goes where on their top-10 lists. In fact, they probably could take 20 tips, write them on 20 playing cards, shuffle that short deck and deal out number 1 through 10 and ignore the rest. It still would seem like a credible top-10 list, and nobody would know the difference.
Another thing: Why exactly 10? Wouldn't you think a presentation of "The 11 keys to success" might be more convincing than "The 10 keys to success"? You've got to suspect that the latter is often a phony group, either truncated by leaving off some keys, or padded by adding contrived ones. But let's stop obsessing and move on.
Today, I'm presenting my choices, in selected categories, of the 11th most-powerful tips in poker. Great care has been taken not to consider what the top 10 might be. Instead, I've chosen the actual tips that seemed somewhat like 11th-place finishers at the precise moment of selection. Few other authorities can make this claim.
Poker psychology: 11th most-powerful tip
In poker, an erratic image is more powerful than a stable one. The more predictable you are at a poker table, the more apt opponents are to figure you out and take advantage. When opponents can gauge accurately how you probably will play a hand, they feel comfortable. When they feel comfortable, they're more of a threat; because they can focus on finding the right tactics to take advantage. Conversely, when opponents are unsure of what you're apt to do next, they're disoriented and they play worse.
The most profitable type of opponent you can play against is the "weak and meek" one. Used in this context, "weak" means that the player calls too many hands. "Meek" means that the player doesn't take full advantage of his winning hands. When you have the combination of weak and meek, you get maximum profit by betting your good hands into players who call too often, and your suffering is reduced when you're beat. It's the best of everything. Obviously, you should seek out weak-and-meek opponents, but it isn't always possible to find a game heavily populated with them. The next-best thing is to weaken the threat of opponents who are initially playing more adequately.
You can do this quite simply. Your image needs to be erratic. That doesn't mean you should play foolishly. It means that you should stick pretty much to your most basic winning strategy, while making it appear that you aren't. You can do this by being a lively personality and by showing just a few hands you've played in strange ways. The impression you'll convey is that of a player who doesn't know himself what he's going to do next. Nothing makes otherwise aggressive players behave more than that does. When they think you might do anything, that you're erratic, they'll surrender the stage to you. And you can then bet and raise in accordance with the strength of your hands, getting extra calls, because they're suspicious; and not having to pay off as many extra bets when they have you beat, because they fear you.
Many players think it's appropriate to appear professional in a poker game. But seeming steady and stable only makes your opponents comfortable - and empowers them to play better. Usually, you want your poker image to be erratic.
Poker statistics: 11th most-powerful tip
It's 110-to-1 against a Hold'em player holding either a pair of aces or kings before the flop. More precisely, it's 109.5-to-1 against. Are these odds large enough that you should have little fear when you raise with a pair of queens with a lot of opponents waiting to act? Of course not. First of all, queens get conquered quite regularly, even if there isn't a bigger pair out there before the flop. All it takes is one ace or king hitting the board, and then an unimproved pair of queens is in sad shape. But, more importantly, especially in No Limit Hold'em games, is the monumental fear of having to call an all-in bet from a trailing player when you hold those queens.
Let's say it's a 10-handed game. You're first to act and there are nine players waiting to act behind you. What are the chances that one of them has you beat? First of all, the odds aren't 110-to-1 against each opponent anymore. They're only 101-to-1 against a single opponent holding a pair of aces or kings, because you already hold 2 cards. That means the deck has been reduced from 52 to 50 and all aces and kings remain. Second, consider that there are nine opponents who have shots at beating you. That means that the chance of someone shooting down your queens is almost nine times what a single player's chance would be. (I say almost, because this isn't a precise way of calculating. Actually, we need to consider the chances of two or more opponents having you beat.) You're going to be beat before the flop more than 1 in 10 times.
It's tricky determining how to play queens when you consider this statistic. I believe that in a no-limit game, you should usually choose to raise significantly, but not so large a raise that you can't make a considered laydown if you get reraised all-in. For instance, if the big blind is $100 and I had $10,000 on the table, I might raise from $200 (making it $300 total to play) to $400 (making it $500 l to go). Of course, this varies, depending on the nature of my opponents and many other factors. And I won't always make the laydown if I'm raised all-in - I've just left enough room to do it by not raising too much. The exact amount of my raise also depends on how I gauge the opponent. The risk of making a huge raise with queens is that most serious opponents are then likely to throw away a pair of jacks and the over-10-percent of the time that an opponent starts with aces or kings, you will get called. Even if you figure someone might call with an A-K, that only gives you a slight advantage.
Because there's a greater chance of someone holding a pair of aces or kings than most players suspect, a pair of queens is vastly less profitable than a pair of kings. And a pair of kings only turns out to be about 70 to 75 percent as profitable as a pair of aces.
Poker tactics: 11th most-powerful tip
Seldom bet a hand that seems average for the situation. This practice of betting medium hands drives me crazy. Listen. When your hand seems about average for the situation - right in the middle of what would be defined as a good hand or a bad hand - you should almost never bet. The few exceptions tend to center around wanting to stay on stage and maintain the pressure. This especially happens in 7-Card Stud, when if you're the previous bettor, pairing your board might drive an opponent out on the next bet, even if you have the worst hand. But, in general, it's unwise to bet middle hands. There - it's simple and I said it. There's almost never a motive to bet a medium hand. You can bet weak hands for posturing or as a bluff, and you can bet strong hands hoping to be called. But medium hands are the perfect hands to check.
I'll prove it. Suppose you played poker with only three cards: an ace, a king, and a queen. You shuffle and deal a single card each to an opponent and to yourself. You have each anted and now you look at your card and decide whether to bet. Well, if you have a queen, you must have the worst hand; but you might bet, hoping to bluff a king. Obviously an ace would call. And if you have an ace, you might bet hoping a king would call. Obviously a queen wouldn't call. But what would be the purpose in betting a king - the middle hand? No purpose at all. You'd get called when an ace beat you and never get called when you were the best hand against a queen. Betting this middle hand would be foolish. And that's what I want you to remember, because the same concept applies throughout poker.
Finally, I want you to know that it wasn't always easy choosing these eleventh-place tips. Some players might argue about the rankings. Maybe someday I'll share the runners-up that finished in 12th place, to appease those with contrary opinions.

POKERMANTIS ETIQUETTE


There's nothing more annoying at the table than a player who screams and yells after each hand. Your table image will always have an effect on how others view your game, and if you continue to badger other players, you'll probably end up with a big target on your forehead.
So play nice. Poker is a fun game and it should stay that way.
Here are 10 things all poker players should remember at the table:
(1) Learn these words: "Nice hand." Even if it was a terrible, terrible play. Why? If that opponent thinks it worked out in his favor, maybe he'll try it again in a different situation, and maybe that time it'll be against you.


(2) When you win a big hand, celebrate by yourself. The trend of more players screaming and yelling after big hands is a result of one thing: television. Everyone sees that if they make a lot of noise, the cameras will run over and they'll get on TV. Guess what? There aren't any cameras in a standard tournament or home game. You want to celebrate? Give a celebratory fist pump and get back to the table ready for the next hand. (3) Never slow roll. For those who aren't familiar with this term, slow rolling is the act of stalling before showing winning cards to upset an opponent at a showdown. This is one of the most annoying things a player can do. In addition, when showing your cards, show both, don't just show the ace for a pair of aces, but show your kicker as well.
(4) It's not the dealer's fault! All he did was shuffle and give the cards to you. There's no reason you should think the dealer has some personal vendetta which prevents you from winning. If you're getting cheated, that's a different story.
(5) Don't call out hands during the action. If there's a draw on the board, don't say, "Wow Jim, look out for the flush." It's up to each player to understand that the draw is on the board and no other player, especially one not involved with the hand, should mention the situation.
(6) Don't splash the pot. Put your chips out there in some kind of orderly fashion. There's no reason to just throw your chips into the air and let them fly all over the place when they land. Additionally, another opponent can accuse you of short changing the pot if the chips get all mixed up.
(7) Keep your bigger chips in front. One of the most difficult piercing situations is being asked, "How much do you have left?" By keeping the chips of higher denominations in the front of your stack, not only will your opponent be intimidated by how much is there, but when he asks that question, all you need to do is point down at your stack instead of answer. In addition to this part, keep your chips orderly. Don't leave a pile of chips all over the table, but one easy stack.
(8) Do not react to flops. A-K-A flop? Great. Let the action take over, not the side comments about this "monster" flop.
(9) Stay at the table until it's your turn to act. Are you ready to fold and head to the bathroom? Wait until it's your turn, fold your hand, and then go. Acting out of turn is something that can be avoided by paying attention, and in this situation you probably can wait a couple more seconds before you need to leave. If not, then you should've gone the hand before.
(10) Keep the action going. Make sure that you continue to keep your head in the game and know when it's your turn to act. Slowing up the game will only reduce the number of hands you'll see.

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TAKE YOUR TIME MY GRASSHOPPA!

Poker is a thinking game, and when you're at the table, you need to take a step back and think about the hand you're involved in or the move you're about to make. Taking your time will ensure that you're making the best move for the situation. Unless someone calls the clock on you, you've got all the time in the world to evaluate your situation.
Sometimes when we've got the nuts we want to rush our chips into the pot. It's important to take our time not only to keep our opponents guessing, but to make sure we're making the right move at the right time.
Professional players such as Scott Fischman claim they take the same amount of time to make every move. Whether the move is a fold, call, or raise, Fischman recommends giving yourself the same amount of time to act in order to not give anything away.
WSOP 2003 champion Chris Moneymaker also mentioned in his book that in his inaugural tournament, before every move, he counted to 10 in his head, then acted on his hand.


What can you give away at the table in terms of the time it takes you to act?
Everything.
If you act too quickly, you might be weak. If you act too slowly, you might be strong. Think about the quick call. When someone calls your bet immediately postflop, chances are they're on a draw and are willing to pay to catch.
Giving tells like this away to your opponents will allow them to catch onto your game and play hands against you based on the time it takes you to act on a hand.
Not only will acting in the same amount of time reduce tells, but it will also give you some time to reflect on the hand and make sure you are making the right decision.
So what are some tips you can use to control your timing?
(1) Do what Moneymaker and Fischman do: give yourself some time to act. Give yourself a minimum of 15 seconds to think about the hand and then act on it.
(2) Ask yourself questions to make you think about the action. Phil Gordon, in his Little Green books, recommends asking yourself the following questions: How are my opponents playing? What are some of the hands my opponents are likely to hold? What do my opponents think I have? Am I in good or bad position?
(3) Don't make up your mind until it's your turn to act. Preflop, wait for everyone else to act ahead of you and pay attention to their actions. If you don't look at your cards before it's your turn, you won't have a preconceived image of what you would like to do with this hand. Say you've got 9-9 and look immediately as soon as you've gotten your cards. It's a solid midpair and you're prepared to call any amount to see if you can hit your set. However, if the two tightest players at your table raise and reraise, are you still going to call? If you look down at the nines at that point, you bring new information into the hand and can fold with ease.
What about postflop? Say you're in position and the flop misses you completely. Everyone then checks to you. Are you going to check still? Keep your mind clear of the action you are planning on taking until it's your turn. Don't already have it in your mind that you're ready to check or fold. Think about your position and decide if it's beneficial to fire at this pot considering the other players that remain against you.
(4) Just think! Poker is about making correct decisions and thinking when it's your turn to act will ensure that you're playing optimal poker and making correct decisions. All your bets and actions will be deliberate and have a purpose. You can rationalize your opponents' actions and recall what has happened in the hand, which will lead you to making an educated move.
So take your time at the table. Think about what you're about to do and once you come up with your action, you'll know it'll be the right one.

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MANTIS! PREPARE FOR BATTLE

Besides not knowing when to get up from the table, one of the largest problems that poker players have is their inability to be prepared for a long session.
Face it, poker is a mental game, and if you aren't ready to think for hours on end, perhaps you shouldn't be playing at that time.
You're ready to play in the main event and you know that if you make it deep in the tournament, you're probably going to be playing for at least 10 hours. What can you do to prepare yourself for a long day at the table?


Making sure that your body is well-rested should be your primary concern. If you're out partying the night before, whether or not you'll be hung over is irrelevant. You need to be 100 percent focused on your task at hand. So get a good night's sleep.
And don't wake up 10 minutes before playing. Give yourself some time to really wake up. Take a shower, have some breakfast, and just get your body moving. Throwing yourself right into the fire isn't optimal.
Next, be physically fit. I know it's hard as a poker player. Exercise will not only help your body, but your mind as well. As crazy as this sounds, you'll have the stamina to sit at the table all day. ESPN.com's Bernard Lee even runs during the mornings of tournaments to help him get going for the long day.
Eat … but not too much. After the first level, do you really want to be counting the minutes until the dinner break? Be prepared and bring yourself snacks at the table so that you can last until dinner and avoid having your actions dictated by your stomach. However, at dinner time, don't stuff yourself. You need a good dinner, but the last thing you need is to be running to the bathroom or going into a "food coma" if you've eaten too much. No, I'm not a nutritionist.
Stretch. You'll be sitting for hours on end barring a couple of breaks, so limber up. It can't hurt, but might if you get up too quickly after two hours to run to the bathroom and hurt your hammy.
Don't drink … alcohol. Please don't throw away your money by getting wrecked at the table. If you want to have a beer to calm the nerves, OK. But don't have 10 of them and expect your 8-5 to hold up because in your stupor you put in all your chips. Do drink … water. Lots of it.
Finally, when nature calls, answer it. The last thing you need to do in the middle of a hand is wonder how long it will be until the level ends. If you miss picking up aces, you might also miss seeing them get cracked. Keep your head on straight by focusing on the game and nothing else. Take advantage of the breaks, but if you need to head to the restroom during a level, you'll be better off.
So for all of you that are planning on playing a big tournament in the near future, prepare your body first for a grueling day. After that day is over, hopefully you'll have a couple more to look forward to.

                                                         POKERMANTIS.COM

TO PLAY OR NOT TO PLAY, THE POWER OF POSITION

Good starting hand selection has always been the trait among successful poker players. They know what hands to play and in what position and situations those hands can be played. This is the reason some players succeed when raising with junk from late position while others miss out on opportunities to steal and fold.
Although many argue that the toughest hand to play is pocket jacks, one of my co-workers surprised me with his convincing argument that it was in fact K-Q. It took me a second to understand his infatuation with the hand and I'm sure it stems from a latest bad beat, but really, when a player sees two paint cards, the desire to play the hand increases.
Let's take the hand as if we were dealt it in each position, but know that in each spot, I'm advocating a raise to open this pot. Calling here will only show weakness and will beg your opponents to raise. Will you call a reraise with K-Q? I wouldn't advocate it.
In early position, most people would argue that this is a clear fold. Playing K-Q here is a mistake. Most of the time, if anyone calls (or even raises), you're either dominated, or at best a 40-60 facing an A-x type of hand. The best hand that you'd hope would call you would be a K-J type, in which you are dominating, and unless you're facing a loose opponent, I wouldn't expect a call here with that range of hand. On top of all of this, if you do head to a flop, you're out of position and in trouble unless one of the blinds is the only caller. Needless to say, this decision should be an easy one, but if you decide to raise here, the best you can hope for is the rest of the table folding down.
In middle position is where some gray area starts to form. As I mentioned above, anyone that calls you will have a better hand, but at this point, there are less obstacles standing in your way. Instead of eight players left to act, you're probably looking at four or five. Then our good friend position comes into play. If you do get a caller, there's a better chance that you could be in position for the rest of the hand, which is always beneficial.
Unfortunately, I can't give you an answer on K-Q from middle position. This is one of those hands that you need to take everything intro consideration before acting. I've recommended that you ask yourself these questions in the past, but if you forgot, here are a couple: Are the players from your position until the button aggressive? What's your image? Can they see right through this raise? Will you call their reraise if they decide to act in that fashion? What about the blinds? Will they defend? Will they reraise? Understanding all the characteristics of the players still left to act will lead you to the right answer in this spot.
In late position, I can't see how you aren't raising here. With a hand like K-Q, raising in late position is almost mandatory. In fact, raising with a huge range of hands is advisable here! Pressuring the blinds is important and even if you get a caller, you aren't necessarily behind anymore. Blinds could call with a suited connector or even a small pair in which you'd be a coin flip. There's always the possibility that someone left to act is holding A-K, A-Q or a big pocket pair, but that's poker and you'll need to act accordingly after they make their decision.
Calling a reraise in this spot isn't awful if you're in position, but if the button decides to reraise, it's time to get out of the way if you think he's got you beat, or re-reraise if you think he's making a move.
Then come the blinds. If you're in the small blind and there's been no action ahead of you, raise it up and take the pot. If you're in the big blind and there's been a limp ahead of you, raise it up. However, if you're in the big blind and a player in late position has raised, what do you do? Do you call and hope your hand isn't dominated or do you fold? Usually, I'm learning toward a call here, depending on the player that's doing the raising. If I miss the flop, but I think my opponent did as well, I'll take a stab at it. If I know that my opponent hit, I'll check/fold.
Think about what you would do in this situation. You're in late position and you make a standard raise with K-Q. The button decides to call and the blinds fold. The flop is Q-8-3. Now what? If you're going to bet, how much should you bet? If you check, what's your action when your opponent bets?
Walking through the rest of the hand, here's what happened:
Hero bets half the pot and the button calls. The turn is a 5 and once again our hero thinks he's ahead and bets out. This time, he's reraised. Hero thinks and can't imagine that his opponent would call the flop with pocket fives. Placing his opponent on a hand is very difficult here, but hero makes a mistake and puts his opponent on J-J, a hand that he can beat. Hero decides that if his opponent is willing to risk all his chips with second pair, then so be it, and he shoves all-in. The button thinks and calls off his chips with A-Q.
How was hero to know that he was dominated? What can a player do to understand that top pair with a king kicker isn't good enough? If anything, I think the button's reraise in this spot should've sent a message, but that's not guaranteed. If the button had pocket 10s or 9s, could he have made the same move? Everything needs to be put into context and hopefully the next time our hero sees this player at the table, he'll know that he's capable of calling with A-Q and trapping. It's a tough hand to play, but I'm interested in what you have to think. How do you play K-Q in this spot? Leave some comments.

                                                           POKERMANTIS.COM

KEEPING A COOL HEAD OR BECOMING KAMIKAZE MARC

A day of poker can be seen as a long, drawn out battle. In that battle are many short confrontations that set the tone for future battles. After all the smaller battles have been completed, someone will be broke and going home. Keeping a cool head throughout every single individual battle is the only way to be victorious in the long run. Once you lose your patience and focus, it's all but over.
What I'm talking about is tilt, but really, it's more than that. Going on tilt is the ultimate way to lose your money. Nobody I know will claim they play better when they are on tilt. If they say so, use some of Joe Navarro's insight to figure out if they're telling the truth. Going on tilt affects your thought process, gets your adrenaline going and will eventually force you to make a mistake, if you don't control it.
Just as a quick example, you have just been two-outed on the river. The guy across from you smirks, claps, jumps up and down; he just rubs it in your face. The very next hand you have K-10 under the gun. That same player reraises you, so you decide that you want revenge and push all-in. He insta-calls and shows pocket kings, which of course hold up.
Now, if you weren't on tilt you would not have:
(1) Raised under the gun with K-10,
(2) Reraised him all-in with K-10,
(3) Let your emotions affect your decisions
Clearly, this is an exaggeration, but I promise you that players whom you have played with have felt angered by a beat you have put on them and have wanted to get their chips back instead of finding a better source.
Admit it. We've all done it. The guy at the table whom you just don't like has taken a pot from you. Instead of looking at one of the weaker players to steal and slowly grind back up, you go right back after your "enemy." And, instead of winning the next pot, just give him more of your lifeline. Part of avoiding tilt comes from the experience. You've been there before, the beat will happen, and when it does, you have to move on. If you feel that you aren't ready to move on, don't play another hand. Take a break. Walk away from the table or even get up to go. Nobody is forcing you to play that next hand and of all people, you need to convince yourself that you are in no shape to ante up.
If this is a tournament, you need to think differently; you can't just leave, but you can walk away. You risk missing an opportunity to pick up a big hand, but even then, what's to say that the hand will hold up? Getting blinded away is a better decision than playing while steaming.
So how do you keep a cool head?
One strategy to use is to remember that each hand is only that, one hand. After each hand, mentally, start over. Give yourself a check list. Count your chips, take a deep breath, get dealt your cards, act on them.
When it comes to a "rival" player, you need to take this out of the equation. You do not have a rival player. The only time you need to focus on defeating one player is when you are heads up. Besides that, everyone else at your table is trying to take your money, and if you aren't paying attention, they will.
Every player should be deemed as the same. Yes, some will be more talented than others and there will be some that you know you can take advantage of. Quite simply, that is an informed decision. For that reason, you should pick on this player if you know you have an advantage. If you don't feel that you have an advantage and are going after a certain player out of spite, you are making a mistake.
Don't let your emotions get the best of you. If you really want to get back at your opponent, make sure you're the one who takes home the most money. After all, isn't the best way to get revenge to have someone else take care of your dirty work? Let the action on the table dictate itself. If you happen to end up knocking out your hated rival, great. If not, hopefully you enjoyed watching him sulk as he walked away from the table.
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